Monday 14 February 2011

The Power of the Ajuma (아줌마)

If you have ever been to Korea you will have come into contact with what some people call the 'third human species'. That's right, you thought there were only two in the world, however a third has evolved on the Korean peninsula. Said to have originally emerged during the late 1950s and early 1960s they are currently numerous, but face extinction within the next 20-30 years (if they turn out not be invincible as some reports suggest).

How can they be identified? Well Ajuma have a distinctive uniform that is both unique and said to be a source of their power. Hair is always observed permed, at certain times of the year the head may be covered by a sun visor (the type more commonly worn by croupiers and poker dealers). Neck scarves are common but not an essential part of the uniform. Clothing is generally tight fitting and practical, as Ajuma will travel in all weather and cover many miles every day. Occasionally hiking gear - fluorescent and waterproof - will be worn, as Ajuma are the sherpas of Korea. Legend* has it that an Ajuma once carried over 100 bottles of Makgeolli on her back to the summit of a mountain for sale to hikers.

So now you can spot them, you might have a better chance of avoiding them... However in Korea they are unavoidable due to their immense speed and cunning, they are able to squeeze into any space no matter how small to get off subway trains first, to locate any available free seat within a 50m radius and assume first position in any queue. In fact for most people, the first contact with an Ajuma is the dig in the ribs whilst waiting for elevator doors to open or such like.

Never incur the wrath of an Ajuma, the resulting rasping verbal lashing will stay with you for days. They are often to found in packs, evidently they share the same source of power and collectively they are a force to be reckoned with, confronting a line of Ajuma on a pavement to pass by will only lead to painful regret. Rarely will you see an Ajuma using a mobile phone, but on the off chance you see this rare event it will be reminiscent of some primitive form, squinting at something that is perplexing and curious. Their speech is generally rife with throat clearing.

Now Ajuma have been credited partially with the ascension of modern developed Korea, they are immensely hard workers, efficient users of resources and collectively are an army of workers which no other group in society would be able to fill. To a certain extent they are still the backbone of the country, in the sense that streets are swept, toilets cleaned, cheap restaurants abound and Korean food is produced is massive volumes.

Personally I wonder with the current immigration policy of Korea how the labour deficit will be solved in years to come as the Ajuma begin to reduce in number. For sure they are a dying race, they come from a generation of 'hard women', ones who were born in poverty with no home comforts, who sleep on traditional Korean beds - blankets on the floor and wooden 'pillows'. This kind of woman is not growing up in Korea any more, Ajuma did not go to university - they went to the school of hard knocks, they do not wear high heels - many are bent double from decades working in the fields...

Whilst some comparison can be drawn to the European Bag Lady, if there were ever to be a Mexican Standoff between the two, there is no doubt that the Ajuma would triumph over any Bag Lady without breaking a sweat. I cannot give any photographic evidence of this unique creature, but rest assured many Ajuma have photos of myself and other Western friends, as they demand group photos if they manage to corner us whilst hiking!

Beware the power of the Ajuma!
*read myth